References · Further reading
The Tailoring Library.
The articles, guides and mill stories we return to. 20 authoritative sources on made-to-measure, how a suit should fit, and the cloth woven in Biella — the foundation our 160 tailors cut to.
The craft of made-to-measure
How bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear actually differ — written by the people who set the standard.
- The difference between bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear Permanent Style
Simon Crompton’s reference definition of the three tiers of tailoring.
- Custom vs. Made-to-Measure vs. Bespoke — what’s the difference? Articles of Style
Dan Trepanier breaks down the terms for a working clientele.
- The Art of Tailoring The Rake
Turning flat cloth into a three-dimensional garment through pattern, construction and pressing.
- Five Unbreakable Rules of Tailoring The Rake
Lapel, buttonhole, lining and balance — the non-negotiables.
- Who are my favourite made-to-measure tailors? Permanent Style
A 2025 survey of where MTM is done well, and why.
How a suit should fit
The fit principles our 160 tailors cut to — shoulder, sleeve, collar, balance.
- How It Should Fit: The Suit Jacket Articles of Style
A clean drape that follows the body, point by point.
- How a Man’s Suit Should Fit — An Illustrated Guide Real Men Real Style
Antonio Centeno’s visual checklist for a flattering cut.
- How Should a Suit Fit? A Visual Guide The Art of Manliness
The diagrams most-shared when people learn to read fit.
- Why You Should Try a Ready-to-Wear Suit First MR PORTER — Derek Guy
Derek Guy on understanding fit before you commission.
Cloth & the mills of Biella
The Italian houses whose cloth we weave with. Biella is the wool capital of the Alps — this is where our fabric narrative begins.
- Vitale Barberis Canonico — the fabric collection Vitale Barberis Canonico
The Biella mill weaving since 1663; ~5,000 new cloths a year.
- Vitale Barberis Canonico: Fabric of the Universe The Rake
A long read on the oldest active mill in Biella.
- Reda — a story of craftsmanship since 1865 Reda 1865
Italy’s first B-Corp wool mill, with sheep-to-shop traceability.
- Behind the Fabric: VBC Wool Flannel Eton
Why alpine water makes Biella flannel what it is.
- Worsted Wool Suiting — a fabric guide Gentleman’s Gazette
The most-used cloth in menswear, explained from the yarn up.
- Flannel — the original woolen fall fabric Gentleman’s Gazette
Carded vs combed flannel, and when to wear each.
- Men’s Suit Fabric Types & Weaves Bespoke Unit
A reference on weaves, weights and seasons.
Houses & journals we read
The editorial we return to — and the houses that keep tailoring alive.
- Made to Order: Tailoring Drake’s
How a London house frames its made-to-order programme.
- The Drake’s Diary Drake’s
Dispatches on cloth and craft from Savile Row and beyond.
- 10 Questions with Michael Hill of Drake’s The Armoury
A creative director on building a tailoring brand.
- The Fabric Archive Gentleman’s Gazette
An ongoing library of cloth guides worth bookmarking.
About this library
Why we publish a reading list.
What is the Tailoring Library?
A curated set of 20 authoritative articles on tailoring, suit fit and Italian cloth that we consider essential reading. We publish it as a public reference for partners, journalists and anyone learning the craft.
Why does Linea di Biella cite other publications?
Because good tailoring is a shared body of knowledge. Linking to the people who define the standards — Permanent Style, The Rake, the mills of Biella — is more useful than pretending we invented it. It also lets clients verify what we claim about cloth and construction.
Which mills does Linea di Biella weave with?
Our cloth is woven in Biella, Italy, sourced from certified Italian mills including Vitale Barberis Canonico and Reda — the same houses featured in this library. We use wool flannel, high-twist fresco, worsteds and linen under our partners’ own labels.